If the engine does not start: Remove the oil filler cap and look inside the valve cover while an assistant hits ignition “Start.” If the overhead camshaft does not rotate, then most likely it is a broken timing belt.

			A two wrench job: normal timing belt replacement, eminently doable by a backyard mechanic. Time ~3-4 hours.
			A two and 1/2 wrench job: (1) replacing the tensioner roller of Figure 20. A bit tricky. Replace every other time you do the timing belt. (2) Air conditioning (AC). A little bit more involved because of shims and a split crankshaft pulley.
			A three wrench job: replacing the front oil seals of the overhead camshaft, auxiliary shaft, and crankshaft when replacing the timing belt. Volvo recommends changing the oil seals every other time you do the timing belt. If the bottom or sides of the timing belt cover are oily, then most likely you’ve got a bad oil seal. Replacing oil seals can easily add another 4-6 hours to the project because most people don’t have the specialized Volvo tools. If only the camshaft oil seals leak, those are easily replaced. The crankshaft oil seal, on the other hand, is more involved because you have to remove the crankshaft pulley nut. Instructions for replacing oil seals are not included in this guide.

Non-Interference

The B20, B21, B23, and B230 engines are non-interference engines, meaning that the camshaft can be rotated independently of the crankshaft and no damage will result to the engine. That is, if the timing belt breaks, the valves will not hit the pistons; the engine will simply stop.

On the other hand, the B234 16-valve engines and any of the other Volvo multivalve engines (the 5-cylinder engines of the 850 and 70 series and the 6- cylinder in the 900 series) are interference engines. Loss of the timing belt in these engines will result in severe or fatal engine damage.


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